Perhaps because today is Sunday, there are plenty of locals enjoying the cafes, restaurants, and open spaces, including groups of elderly men discussing the world. In a bar/cafe/shop named SOS Gastronomia we have focaccia and cold drinks as Signora brings out large quantities of food and places it in a display cabinet and Signore sells newspapers, lottery tickets and the odd glass of alcohol

Further east from Cisternino we find Ostuni, a town known as "the white city" (above)

- the old part of the town that bestows this description is on one of three hills

Starting in the Piazza della Liberta, we followed a mostly cobbled street up towards the Cathedral. None of the churches are open but there is much to  admire, and plenty of tourist captions in English. Of particular interest are an ornamental obelisk to St Oronzo, a church with another example of an extravagantly carved rose window, and a number of constructions that bridge the street to form attractive arches. However, with the sound of thunder increasing, we only spend an hour is Ostuni before returning to our hotel where a large birthday party for a small child is being held. Tonight, we eat in the bar area and get some very personal service from the chef and her sister and other members of the family. The set menu comprises an appetiser of two small squares (one spinach; one meat); Latticini di Massereia Con Cotto d'Uve e Mandorle ("Mix of Farm Cheeses with Walnuts and Cooked Grape Juice");Tagliolini di Pasta Fresca Con Salsiccia e Porcini ("Fresh Pasta Tagliolini with meat and mushrooms and tomato sauce"); white chocolate dessert. With the local Locorotondo wine and a glass of Limoncella liqueur, this is another very enjoyable meal

May 26th: like Locorotondo yesterday, this morning's first objective (Alberobello) is within the Zona del Trulli but here the examples of the cone-shaped houses are massed together rather than scattered throughout the surrounding countryside. Apparently, there are about 1,500 trulli packed into the narrow streets of Alberobello