After our short stay in Auckland, we drive north for another 3-night stay - the location being Paihia, the main tourist town in the Bay of Islands area. There is heavy traffic on Highway 1 through Auckland but we make good progress north of the city as the road passes through mostly agricultural land. The winding, hilly road passes near the sea occasionally. There are a large number of the beautifully symmetrical Norfolk Islands Pines.

After driving 85-kilometres we stop at Welford for coffee. Our next stop is at Kawakawa which is famous for its idiosyncratic toilets (left and right) made from broken tiles, bottles, etc.

At 1:30pm we reach Cook's Lookout Motel in Paihia, having driven 222-kilometres. The motel's elevated, ridge-top position provides a fantastic view into the bay below (left), but the motel's buildings are of a very poor quality, chalet-type construction. The standard of accommodation is reminiscent of temporary postwar buildings. The new proprietors are two Liverpudlians who have no idea as to how to run a hotel

As we drive into Paihia to get the 2:30pm ferry across the Veronica Channel to Russell (New Zealand's most historic village) we look for alternative accommodation. However, there are 'No Vacancy' signs everywhere reflecting the fact that the day after tomorrow is Waitangi Day - the anniversary of the treaty that was signed here in 1840 ceding the nation's sovereignty to Britain.

 

In Russell, we begin by visiting Pompallier, a building that housed the first 'manufacturer' in New Zealand - the production of Catholic tracts in the Maori language.

 

Russell's Christ Church is New Zealand's oldest surviving church, dating from 1836.

From the church we commence a steep climb of Flagstaff Hill, which takes us through the Kororareka Scenic Reserve. The flagpole has an interesting history, previous versions having been cut down in the years 1844 and 1845 in a period of dispute between the Maoris and the British.

Returning to Russell, we decide to eat at Sally's Restaurant, but find that they do not start until 6:30pm, so we sit outside drinking Coke, studying the menu, and enjoying the good weather. Eventually, we dine at a window table that gives us views over the ferry pier as we eat an excellent and very filling meal. We get the 8pm ferry back to Paihia and our sub-standard accommodation.

 

Surprisingly, we have a very good night's sleep - the amazing quietness of the location being second only to the wonderful view as the hotel's only redeeming features.

In Paihia, we report to Fuller's office and collect our tickets for two pre-booked excursions - today's cruise of the Bay of Islands, and tomorrow's bus trip to the very north of North Island.

Our cruise is known as the Fuller's Cream Trip, having started in 1919 as a service to collect cream from farms not accessible by road, and to deliver supplies. Today, that service continues, but tourists are the main business. The water is choppy out in the bay, but calm close to shore. We call at a number of jetties to exchange post etc, the farmer or householder always being accompanied by a dog who expects (and gets) a biscuit

Our route into the Bay of Islands takes us to Moturoa (the second largest in the bay; farmed with sheep); the Black Rocks (above - an extensive chain of volcanic rocks); Oihi Bay (where New Zealand's first Christian service was held on Christmas Day in 1814); Assassination Cove (site of a cannibalistic massacre in 1722); and Robertson Island (where Captain Cook landed in 1769).

A stop is made at Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka, the largest of the islands in the bay, made famous by the visits of the writer Zane Grey. During the 1 hour, 40 minute stop we are able to explore part of the island and to partake of a sparse buffet lunch included in the trip's cost

Departing Otehei Bay at 2pm, the boat heads out to Piercy Island, the location of a spectacular natural feature known as  the Hole-in-the-Rock. Usually, this is the highlight of the trip as the boat passes through the 'Hole', but the heavy sea prevents this today. A smaller boat, however, makes the passage

On the return journey to Paihia, a search is made for Bottle Nosed Dolphins without success, then the boat cruises off Okahu Island so that passengers can celebrate the origins of the cruise with a cream tea, which consists of a scone with a cup of tea