The walk on the coastal track takes us just over two hours to reach Torrent Bay where we are reunited with the Explorer, that takes us back to Kaiteriteri. On the way back to the Avalon Manor Motel, we stop off at a farm to buy some apples and pears, arriving in our room at 6:30pm. Jeanette puts some laundry in one of the hotel's machines, then we drive into downtown Motueka. Here we get some water at the convenience store; order snapper at a Fish & Chip shop; buy portions of the Grain & Grape's excellent carrot cake; before collecting our snapper in a 'fish 'n' chip box'. The fish and chips are cooked to order as we take a seat and chat to a farmer's wife regarding her sheep. Back in our room, we eat our gourmet meal as we watch CSI on TV

 

Our day begins with a 140-kilometre drive from Motueka to St Arnaud on the north shore of Lake Rotoiti. After watching a video at the visitor centre that describes the unique ecosystem of the Buller River, we get coffee and chicken sandwiches to eat by the lake. This is a quiet, remote spot in the mountains, and we enjoy the lakeside tranquility with a short hike along the Bellbird Walk, before driving to Renwick

At Renwick, we locate one of the vineyards in the area (Cloudy Bay) that we understand does tours. However, the snobby staff deny that they do tours, so we just taste their 2001 Chardonnay (awful), use the toilets, and then drive to the Highfield Estate vineyard with its Tuscan-inspired tower

The Highfield Estate vineyard is a big improvement on Cloudy Bay - commencing with a friendly welcome. We have a very nice lunch of antipasta followed by split peach with cream and ice cream - the latter served in a lovely, twisty glass. Climbing the tower, we are able to enjoy views of the vineyard and the surrounding countryside.

Our location in the Marlborough District is the valley of the Wairau River, the centre of the New Zealand wine industry. We now follow the valley eastwards towards the coast and, as we bypass Blenheim to join Highway 1, we are not far from Picton where we landed on South Island two days ago. The scenery becomes very arid as we cross a pass to join this main highway, where it turns south to run along the coast. There are spectacular sea views and, near the town of Clarence, we stop at the Ohau Point Sea Colony.

This is the largest colony of seals on South Island and it includes some very active pups 

There was very little traffic on Highway 1 which included some dry fords that have bypass bridges for wetter times, and a long, narrow, two-level bridge near Seddon. The one-way bridge (above) has a railway line on its upper level

Near Kaikoura we spot The Store, an establishment we heard being praised as we had lunch. Located in a beautiful position near the sea, we make a comfort stop and buy some postcards. These are very expensive and we come away wondering whether we have been deliberately overcharged.

 

We reach the Lobster Inn Motor Lodge (below) in Kaikoura at about 5pm. There is no-one at reception, but a notice refers us to the bar to check-in, although the bar staff seem completely clueless as regards the correct procedure. The motel has nineteen units, so why our room's number is 707 is a mystery. The well-equipped room is huge but has a large, unused space in the middle which, combined with the lack of decorative features, gives a lack of individuality and warmth

Straight after unloading the car, we drive off to explore the nearby Kaikoura Peninsular and to visit Fyffe House (above). This is the town's oldest building - an old whaler's cottage that occupies a site with great sea views. The unprepossessing house dates from 1842 and has an interesting interior that is shown to us by a very pleasant lady. Thanks to our National Trust for Scotland membership, entry is free.

On the opposite side of the road from Fyffe House is a single chimney, all that remains of an old custom house. The chimney is perched in front of an area of limestone flats and rock pools towards the sea. We explore the area in the hot sunshine, finding seals and lots of sea weed.

Commencing just past Fyffe House, we walk to Point Kean before driving to the Whale Watch Station in Kaikoura. Here, we report for the excursion we have pre-booked for tomorrow, then go to the nearby Hislop's Wholefood Cafe for two large seafood chowders with bread. We very much enjoy the excellent food, sitting outside at a large round table that we share with two water engineers from Christchurch

Just off the coast at Kaikoura a 4,000-feet trench provides plenty of food that ensures that gigantic sperm whales spend their time here. We check-in again this morning - at an old railway station (the 'Whaleway Station') used by the Maori-owned Whale Watch Kaikoura Company. After a pre-cruise briefing that warns of the strong possibility of bad weather, we have time for coffee and toast before we are bussed a short distance to board the 18-metre catamaran Te Ao Marama ("The World of Light"). As the weather deteriorates, the catamaran is soon subject to a heavy swell as we reach an area where currents meet. Passengers soon start being sick, particularly children who have been encouraged to eat crisps as we sail out. We get excellent sightings of four of these huge creatures, and David manages to get some photographs despite an Australian woman standing next to him on the top deck vomiting overboard, despire there being other passengers below.

 

The weather deteriorates further as we get back to shore, and soon after sailings for the rest of the day are cancelled, and the helicopter flight over the same stretch of ocean that we have booked for 3pm looks doubtful. We have time for a lunch of vegetarian quiche before our flight time, but the pilot over the area reports poor visibility making the trip not worthwhile. As we drive away, the rain arrives.

 

As we drive south into the rain we are able to enjoy some spectacular coastal scenery enhanced by heavy surf. We make a slight diversion off Highway 1 to visit Pegasus Bay to view the siltstone cliffs before eventually reaching a relatively flat part of the Canterbury Plain. Reaching Christchurch, we find Country Glen Lodge where we will be staying for three nights.